The remote northern region of Romania called Maramureș is a charming, bucolic place famous for gentle wooded mountains, traditional villages and elaborately decorated wooden churches of Orthodox and Greco-Catholic denominations. Some of these churches are a part of UNESCO World Heritage. Life here seems to go on just as it has for centuries, but the history hasn’t always been calm and peaceful, and these lands being at the heart of the Eastern European ethnic hodgepodge changed hands back and forth many times.